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}







2















I am trying to get my images sharp, but I always notice there are some blurry edges that are further from the lens.



I basically set my ISO to 100 and tried to work my way from there. Since I was using a tripod (no wireless shutter control but try to minimize the shaking), I decided that shutter speed can be slow (but I don't know if I should've made it slower to allow in more light so I can increase aperture). I didn't maximize my aperture to the highest, but I set it to something like F14, but I read that maximizing aperture and going downwards is the way to go.



Camera: Sony, ILCE-6000, a6000



Lens: E 3.5-5.6/PZ 16-50 OSS; 0.25m/0.82ft-0.30m/0.98ft



ISO: 100



Shutter Speed: 0.5"



Aperture: F14



enter image description here



enter image description here



enter image description here










share|improve this question

























  • @xiota edited the main post

    – Pherdindy
    30 mins ago






  • 1





    FWIW lens diameter doesn't matter but the other stuff does

    – mattdm
    29 mins ago


















2















I am trying to get my images sharp, but I always notice there are some blurry edges that are further from the lens.



I basically set my ISO to 100 and tried to work my way from there. Since I was using a tripod (no wireless shutter control but try to minimize the shaking), I decided that shutter speed can be slow (but I don't know if I should've made it slower to allow in more light so I can increase aperture). I didn't maximize my aperture to the highest, but I set it to something like F14, but I read that maximizing aperture and going downwards is the way to go.



Camera: Sony, ILCE-6000, a6000



Lens: E 3.5-5.6/PZ 16-50 OSS; 0.25m/0.82ft-0.30m/0.98ft



ISO: 100



Shutter Speed: 0.5"



Aperture: F14



enter image description here



enter image description here



enter image description here










share|improve this question

























  • @xiota edited the main post

    – Pherdindy
    30 mins ago






  • 1





    FWIW lens diameter doesn't matter but the other stuff does

    – mattdm
    29 mins ago














2












2








2








I am trying to get my images sharp, but I always notice there are some blurry edges that are further from the lens.



I basically set my ISO to 100 and tried to work my way from there. Since I was using a tripod (no wireless shutter control but try to minimize the shaking), I decided that shutter speed can be slow (but I don't know if I should've made it slower to allow in more light so I can increase aperture). I didn't maximize my aperture to the highest, but I set it to something like F14, but I read that maximizing aperture and going downwards is the way to go.



Camera: Sony, ILCE-6000, a6000



Lens: E 3.5-5.6/PZ 16-50 OSS; 0.25m/0.82ft-0.30m/0.98ft



ISO: 100



Shutter Speed: 0.5"



Aperture: F14



enter image description here



enter image description here



enter image description here










share|improve this question
















I am trying to get my images sharp, but I always notice there are some blurry edges that are further from the lens.



I basically set my ISO to 100 and tried to work my way from there. Since I was using a tripod (no wireless shutter control but try to minimize the shaking), I decided that shutter speed can be slow (but I don't know if I should've made it slower to allow in more light so I can increase aperture). I didn't maximize my aperture to the highest, but I set it to something like F14, but I read that maximizing aperture and going downwards is the way to go.



Camera: Sony, ILCE-6000, a6000



Lens: E 3.5-5.6/PZ 16-50 OSS; 0.25m/0.82ft-0.30m/0.98ft



ISO: 100



Shutter Speed: 0.5"



Aperture: F14



enter image description here



enter image description here



enter image description here







camera-settings product-photography blur






share|improve this question















share|improve this question













share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 29 mins ago







Pherdindy

















asked 1 hour ago









PherdindyPherdindy

343




343













  • @xiota edited the main post

    – Pherdindy
    30 mins ago






  • 1





    FWIW lens diameter doesn't matter but the other stuff does

    – mattdm
    29 mins ago



















  • @xiota edited the main post

    – Pherdindy
    30 mins ago






  • 1





    FWIW lens diameter doesn't matter but the other stuff does

    – mattdm
    29 mins ago

















@xiota edited the main post

– Pherdindy
30 mins ago





@xiota edited the main post

– Pherdindy
30 mins ago




1




1





FWIW lens diameter doesn't matter but the other stuff does

– mattdm
29 mins ago





FWIW lens diameter doesn't matter but the other stuff does

– mattdm
29 mins ago










3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes


















2














Increasing the aperture will increase the effect of diffraction. To make photos with big DoF you need to apply technique as focus stacking.




Focus stacking (also known as focal plane merging and z-stacking or
focus blending) is a digital image processing technique which combines
multiple images taken at different focus distances to give a resulting
image with a greater depth of field (DOF) than any of the individual
source images. Focus stacking can be used in any situation where
individual images have a very shallow depth of field; macro
photography and optical microscopy are two typical examples. Focus
stacking can also be useful in landscape photography.




And also use some kind of remote shutter to minimize the camera movement






share|improve this answer


























  • or the timer which is in most cameras so it will release a couple of seconds later instead of the remote shutter... if you use a DSLR you could also consider to activate the mode where the mirror is flipped up a couple seconds before the actual photo

    – LuZel
    37 mins ago













  • @LuZel, usually timer is fine for one or two photos, but not for a lot of photos you need later to align

    – Romeo Ninov
    35 mins ago











  • ok that's a good point.

    – LuZel
    33 mins ago



















2














It appears your aperture is still too open for the subject to be entirely in focus, at the current distance between the lens and the subject.



You could tackle this issue in three ways:



1) Close down the aperture



An open aperture will result in a narrow depth-of-field (DOF). The DOF entails the area in the image that is in acceptably sharp focus. Seeing as how almost the entire subject is in focus, I assume that -1 stop (so close the aperture by 1 stop) would do the trick.



In short: open aperture -> little in focus // closed aperture -> a lot in focus



2) Apply the focus stacking technique



As per Romeo Ninov's answer. More work, but the best solution as a lens is usually at its sharpest 2-3 stops from its max. open position.



3) Increase the distance between your subject and the lens



Generally speaking, moving closer to your subject (as with macro photography) will get you a smaller DOF. This is especially the case if you use a camera with bellows. If you move the lens away from the subject your DOF will increase. To keep the subject the same size on the image, you will need to crop the image. Do not increase the focal length to compensate for the subject size change, as this will leave the DOF unchanged from the previous setup. Do note that moving away from the aperture will also affect compression, which may be an unwanted by-effect.



How to determine DOF



Many lenses feature a scale to roughly determine the DOF at a certain aperture and distance to the subject. For a more accurate measurement, you could use a DOF calculator such as this one. You could also manually calculate DOF with the formulas on this page.



Best of luck!






share|improve this answer





















  • 1





    @xiota ah you're absolutely correct.. That's a mistake. Though decreasing focal length would not be necessary.

    – Tim Stack
    32 mins ago













  • So for product photography, a longer lens is better for #3, to get a close up version of my product and move my tripod away? It does make sense similar to how it's harder for our eyes to see things as we move closer to the image. My issue is that my camera lens was at maximum zoom and quite near the subject to obtain that size

    – Pherdindy
    21 mins ago






  • 1





    I would argue option 2 is the best, and the third the least favourable. The latter affects, as I wrote, the compression of the subject and a compressed subject would look off for macro photography. You'd also have to deal with cropping, thus getting a smaller image resolution. Zooming is the same as increasing focal length, something you should not do, as I mentioned.

    – Tim Stack
    15 mins ago











  • Thanks will look into the post a bit more in depth.

    – Pherdindy
    9 mins ago











  • #2 takes too much work. Combine #1 and #3. Stop down to F11, use a small focal length (18mm), pick a distance where entire subject is in focus, crop resulting image.

    – xiota
    9 mins ago





















1














You need to increase Depth of Field.




  • Increase F-number (decrease aperture).

  • Increase distance.

  • Decrease focal length.


I would not use an aperture smaller than F8-11 because of diffraction. Once you have found a suitable distance, you will have to crop the image because the subject will be small within the frame.



Another technique you can consider using is tilt-shift. This allows you to align the focal plane with your subject. Since you are using mirrorless, you can buy a relatively inexpensive mount adapter with tilt function to use with a full-frame lens.






share|improve this answer


























  • Tilting mount is basically the thing on the tripod, if i'm not mistaken, where you can point the camera up or down?

    – Pherdindy
    7 mins ago













  • No, you'll need bellows or an adapter for that. You tilt the lens, not the entire camera

    – Tim Stack
    5 mins ago













  • I'm not affiliated... Just posting link as example... ebay.com/itm/293058811191

    – xiota
    4 mins ago











  • Okay thanks complete noob to this lol. Gonna spend time to read on the stuff in this post

    – Pherdindy
    3 mins ago











  • Have you also tried taking pictures with your phone? Usually the DOF is pretty wide and may get your entire product in focus.

    – xiota
    21 secs ago












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3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes








3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes









active

oldest

votes






active

oldest

votes









2














Increasing the aperture will increase the effect of diffraction. To make photos with big DoF you need to apply technique as focus stacking.




Focus stacking (also known as focal plane merging and z-stacking or
focus blending) is a digital image processing technique which combines
multiple images taken at different focus distances to give a resulting
image with a greater depth of field (DOF) than any of the individual
source images. Focus stacking can be used in any situation where
individual images have a very shallow depth of field; macro
photography and optical microscopy are two typical examples. Focus
stacking can also be useful in landscape photography.




And also use some kind of remote shutter to minimize the camera movement






share|improve this answer


























  • or the timer which is in most cameras so it will release a couple of seconds later instead of the remote shutter... if you use a DSLR you could also consider to activate the mode where the mirror is flipped up a couple seconds before the actual photo

    – LuZel
    37 mins ago













  • @LuZel, usually timer is fine for one or two photos, but not for a lot of photos you need later to align

    – Romeo Ninov
    35 mins ago











  • ok that's a good point.

    – LuZel
    33 mins ago
















2














Increasing the aperture will increase the effect of diffraction. To make photos with big DoF you need to apply technique as focus stacking.




Focus stacking (also known as focal plane merging and z-stacking or
focus blending) is a digital image processing technique which combines
multiple images taken at different focus distances to give a resulting
image with a greater depth of field (DOF) than any of the individual
source images. Focus stacking can be used in any situation where
individual images have a very shallow depth of field; macro
photography and optical microscopy are two typical examples. Focus
stacking can also be useful in landscape photography.




And also use some kind of remote shutter to minimize the camera movement






share|improve this answer


























  • or the timer which is in most cameras so it will release a couple of seconds later instead of the remote shutter... if you use a DSLR you could also consider to activate the mode where the mirror is flipped up a couple seconds before the actual photo

    – LuZel
    37 mins ago













  • @LuZel, usually timer is fine for one or two photos, but not for a lot of photos you need later to align

    – Romeo Ninov
    35 mins ago











  • ok that's a good point.

    – LuZel
    33 mins ago














2












2








2







Increasing the aperture will increase the effect of diffraction. To make photos with big DoF you need to apply technique as focus stacking.




Focus stacking (also known as focal plane merging and z-stacking or
focus blending) is a digital image processing technique which combines
multiple images taken at different focus distances to give a resulting
image with a greater depth of field (DOF) than any of the individual
source images. Focus stacking can be used in any situation where
individual images have a very shallow depth of field; macro
photography and optical microscopy are two typical examples. Focus
stacking can also be useful in landscape photography.




And also use some kind of remote shutter to minimize the camera movement






share|improve this answer















Increasing the aperture will increase the effect of diffraction. To make photos with big DoF you need to apply technique as focus stacking.




Focus stacking (also known as focal plane merging and z-stacking or
focus blending) is a digital image processing technique which combines
multiple images taken at different focus distances to give a resulting
image with a greater depth of field (DOF) than any of the individual
source images. Focus stacking can be used in any situation where
individual images have a very shallow depth of field; macro
photography and optical microscopy are two typical examples. Focus
stacking can also be useful in landscape photography.




And also use some kind of remote shutter to minimize the camera movement







share|improve this answer














share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer








edited 45 mins ago

























answered 53 mins ago









Romeo NinovRomeo Ninov

4,23931328




4,23931328













  • or the timer which is in most cameras so it will release a couple of seconds later instead of the remote shutter... if you use a DSLR you could also consider to activate the mode where the mirror is flipped up a couple seconds before the actual photo

    – LuZel
    37 mins ago













  • @LuZel, usually timer is fine for one or two photos, but not for a lot of photos you need later to align

    – Romeo Ninov
    35 mins ago











  • ok that's a good point.

    – LuZel
    33 mins ago



















  • or the timer which is in most cameras so it will release a couple of seconds later instead of the remote shutter... if you use a DSLR you could also consider to activate the mode where the mirror is flipped up a couple seconds before the actual photo

    – LuZel
    37 mins ago













  • @LuZel, usually timer is fine for one or two photos, but not for a lot of photos you need later to align

    – Romeo Ninov
    35 mins ago











  • ok that's a good point.

    – LuZel
    33 mins ago

















or the timer which is in most cameras so it will release a couple of seconds later instead of the remote shutter... if you use a DSLR you could also consider to activate the mode where the mirror is flipped up a couple seconds before the actual photo

– LuZel
37 mins ago







or the timer which is in most cameras so it will release a couple of seconds later instead of the remote shutter... if you use a DSLR you could also consider to activate the mode where the mirror is flipped up a couple seconds before the actual photo

– LuZel
37 mins ago















@LuZel, usually timer is fine for one or two photos, but not for a lot of photos you need later to align

– Romeo Ninov
35 mins ago





@LuZel, usually timer is fine for one or two photos, but not for a lot of photos you need later to align

– Romeo Ninov
35 mins ago













ok that's a good point.

– LuZel
33 mins ago





ok that's a good point.

– LuZel
33 mins ago













2














It appears your aperture is still too open for the subject to be entirely in focus, at the current distance between the lens and the subject.



You could tackle this issue in three ways:



1) Close down the aperture



An open aperture will result in a narrow depth-of-field (DOF). The DOF entails the area in the image that is in acceptably sharp focus. Seeing as how almost the entire subject is in focus, I assume that -1 stop (so close the aperture by 1 stop) would do the trick.



In short: open aperture -> little in focus // closed aperture -> a lot in focus



2) Apply the focus stacking technique



As per Romeo Ninov's answer. More work, but the best solution as a lens is usually at its sharpest 2-3 stops from its max. open position.



3) Increase the distance between your subject and the lens



Generally speaking, moving closer to your subject (as with macro photography) will get you a smaller DOF. This is especially the case if you use a camera with bellows. If you move the lens away from the subject your DOF will increase. To keep the subject the same size on the image, you will need to crop the image. Do not increase the focal length to compensate for the subject size change, as this will leave the DOF unchanged from the previous setup. Do note that moving away from the aperture will also affect compression, which may be an unwanted by-effect.



How to determine DOF



Many lenses feature a scale to roughly determine the DOF at a certain aperture and distance to the subject. For a more accurate measurement, you could use a DOF calculator such as this one. You could also manually calculate DOF with the formulas on this page.



Best of luck!






share|improve this answer





















  • 1





    @xiota ah you're absolutely correct.. That's a mistake. Though decreasing focal length would not be necessary.

    – Tim Stack
    32 mins ago













  • So for product photography, a longer lens is better for #3, to get a close up version of my product and move my tripod away? It does make sense similar to how it's harder for our eyes to see things as we move closer to the image. My issue is that my camera lens was at maximum zoom and quite near the subject to obtain that size

    – Pherdindy
    21 mins ago






  • 1





    I would argue option 2 is the best, and the third the least favourable. The latter affects, as I wrote, the compression of the subject and a compressed subject would look off for macro photography. You'd also have to deal with cropping, thus getting a smaller image resolution. Zooming is the same as increasing focal length, something you should not do, as I mentioned.

    – Tim Stack
    15 mins ago











  • Thanks will look into the post a bit more in depth.

    – Pherdindy
    9 mins ago











  • #2 takes too much work. Combine #1 and #3. Stop down to F11, use a small focal length (18mm), pick a distance where entire subject is in focus, crop resulting image.

    – xiota
    9 mins ago


















2














It appears your aperture is still too open for the subject to be entirely in focus, at the current distance between the lens and the subject.



You could tackle this issue in three ways:



1) Close down the aperture



An open aperture will result in a narrow depth-of-field (DOF). The DOF entails the area in the image that is in acceptably sharp focus. Seeing as how almost the entire subject is in focus, I assume that -1 stop (so close the aperture by 1 stop) would do the trick.



In short: open aperture -> little in focus // closed aperture -> a lot in focus



2) Apply the focus stacking technique



As per Romeo Ninov's answer. More work, but the best solution as a lens is usually at its sharpest 2-3 stops from its max. open position.



3) Increase the distance between your subject and the lens



Generally speaking, moving closer to your subject (as with macro photography) will get you a smaller DOF. This is especially the case if you use a camera with bellows. If you move the lens away from the subject your DOF will increase. To keep the subject the same size on the image, you will need to crop the image. Do not increase the focal length to compensate for the subject size change, as this will leave the DOF unchanged from the previous setup. Do note that moving away from the aperture will also affect compression, which may be an unwanted by-effect.



How to determine DOF



Many lenses feature a scale to roughly determine the DOF at a certain aperture and distance to the subject. For a more accurate measurement, you could use a DOF calculator such as this one. You could also manually calculate DOF with the formulas on this page.



Best of luck!






share|improve this answer





















  • 1





    @xiota ah you're absolutely correct.. That's a mistake. Though decreasing focal length would not be necessary.

    – Tim Stack
    32 mins ago













  • So for product photography, a longer lens is better for #3, to get a close up version of my product and move my tripod away? It does make sense similar to how it's harder for our eyes to see things as we move closer to the image. My issue is that my camera lens was at maximum zoom and quite near the subject to obtain that size

    – Pherdindy
    21 mins ago






  • 1





    I would argue option 2 is the best, and the third the least favourable. The latter affects, as I wrote, the compression of the subject and a compressed subject would look off for macro photography. You'd also have to deal with cropping, thus getting a smaller image resolution. Zooming is the same as increasing focal length, something you should not do, as I mentioned.

    – Tim Stack
    15 mins ago











  • Thanks will look into the post a bit more in depth.

    – Pherdindy
    9 mins ago











  • #2 takes too much work. Combine #1 and #3. Stop down to F11, use a small focal length (18mm), pick a distance where entire subject is in focus, crop resulting image.

    – xiota
    9 mins ago
















2












2








2







It appears your aperture is still too open for the subject to be entirely in focus, at the current distance between the lens and the subject.



You could tackle this issue in three ways:



1) Close down the aperture



An open aperture will result in a narrow depth-of-field (DOF). The DOF entails the area in the image that is in acceptably sharp focus. Seeing as how almost the entire subject is in focus, I assume that -1 stop (so close the aperture by 1 stop) would do the trick.



In short: open aperture -> little in focus // closed aperture -> a lot in focus



2) Apply the focus stacking technique



As per Romeo Ninov's answer. More work, but the best solution as a lens is usually at its sharpest 2-3 stops from its max. open position.



3) Increase the distance between your subject and the lens



Generally speaking, moving closer to your subject (as with macro photography) will get you a smaller DOF. This is especially the case if you use a camera with bellows. If you move the lens away from the subject your DOF will increase. To keep the subject the same size on the image, you will need to crop the image. Do not increase the focal length to compensate for the subject size change, as this will leave the DOF unchanged from the previous setup. Do note that moving away from the aperture will also affect compression, which may be an unwanted by-effect.



How to determine DOF



Many lenses feature a scale to roughly determine the DOF at a certain aperture and distance to the subject. For a more accurate measurement, you could use a DOF calculator such as this one. You could also manually calculate DOF with the formulas on this page.



Best of luck!






share|improve this answer















It appears your aperture is still too open for the subject to be entirely in focus, at the current distance between the lens and the subject.



You could tackle this issue in three ways:



1) Close down the aperture



An open aperture will result in a narrow depth-of-field (DOF). The DOF entails the area in the image that is in acceptably sharp focus. Seeing as how almost the entire subject is in focus, I assume that -1 stop (so close the aperture by 1 stop) would do the trick.



In short: open aperture -> little in focus // closed aperture -> a lot in focus



2) Apply the focus stacking technique



As per Romeo Ninov's answer. More work, but the best solution as a lens is usually at its sharpest 2-3 stops from its max. open position.



3) Increase the distance between your subject and the lens



Generally speaking, moving closer to your subject (as with macro photography) will get you a smaller DOF. This is especially the case if you use a camera with bellows. If you move the lens away from the subject your DOF will increase. To keep the subject the same size on the image, you will need to crop the image. Do not increase the focal length to compensate for the subject size change, as this will leave the DOF unchanged from the previous setup. Do note that moving away from the aperture will also affect compression, which may be an unwanted by-effect.



How to determine DOF



Many lenses feature a scale to roughly determine the DOF at a certain aperture and distance to the subject. For a more accurate measurement, you could use a DOF calculator such as this one. You could also manually calculate DOF with the formulas on this page.



Best of luck!







share|improve this answer














share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer








edited 28 mins ago

























answered 53 mins ago









Tim StackTim Stack

1515




1515








  • 1





    @xiota ah you're absolutely correct.. That's a mistake. Though decreasing focal length would not be necessary.

    – Tim Stack
    32 mins ago













  • So for product photography, a longer lens is better for #3, to get a close up version of my product and move my tripod away? It does make sense similar to how it's harder for our eyes to see things as we move closer to the image. My issue is that my camera lens was at maximum zoom and quite near the subject to obtain that size

    – Pherdindy
    21 mins ago






  • 1





    I would argue option 2 is the best, and the third the least favourable. The latter affects, as I wrote, the compression of the subject and a compressed subject would look off for macro photography. You'd also have to deal with cropping, thus getting a smaller image resolution. Zooming is the same as increasing focal length, something you should not do, as I mentioned.

    – Tim Stack
    15 mins ago











  • Thanks will look into the post a bit more in depth.

    – Pherdindy
    9 mins ago











  • #2 takes too much work. Combine #1 and #3. Stop down to F11, use a small focal length (18mm), pick a distance where entire subject is in focus, crop resulting image.

    – xiota
    9 mins ago
















  • 1





    @xiota ah you're absolutely correct.. That's a mistake. Though decreasing focal length would not be necessary.

    – Tim Stack
    32 mins ago













  • So for product photography, a longer lens is better for #3, to get a close up version of my product and move my tripod away? It does make sense similar to how it's harder for our eyes to see things as we move closer to the image. My issue is that my camera lens was at maximum zoom and quite near the subject to obtain that size

    – Pherdindy
    21 mins ago






  • 1





    I would argue option 2 is the best, and the third the least favourable. The latter affects, as I wrote, the compression of the subject and a compressed subject would look off for macro photography. You'd also have to deal with cropping, thus getting a smaller image resolution. Zooming is the same as increasing focal length, something you should not do, as I mentioned.

    – Tim Stack
    15 mins ago











  • Thanks will look into the post a bit more in depth.

    – Pherdindy
    9 mins ago











  • #2 takes too much work. Combine #1 and #3. Stop down to F11, use a small focal length (18mm), pick a distance where entire subject is in focus, crop resulting image.

    – xiota
    9 mins ago










1




1





@xiota ah you're absolutely correct.. That's a mistake. Though decreasing focal length would not be necessary.

– Tim Stack
32 mins ago







@xiota ah you're absolutely correct.. That's a mistake. Though decreasing focal length would not be necessary.

– Tim Stack
32 mins ago















So for product photography, a longer lens is better for #3, to get a close up version of my product and move my tripod away? It does make sense similar to how it's harder for our eyes to see things as we move closer to the image. My issue is that my camera lens was at maximum zoom and quite near the subject to obtain that size

– Pherdindy
21 mins ago





So for product photography, a longer lens is better for #3, to get a close up version of my product and move my tripod away? It does make sense similar to how it's harder for our eyes to see things as we move closer to the image. My issue is that my camera lens was at maximum zoom and quite near the subject to obtain that size

– Pherdindy
21 mins ago




1




1





I would argue option 2 is the best, and the third the least favourable. The latter affects, as I wrote, the compression of the subject and a compressed subject would look off for macro photography. You'd also have to deal with cropping, thus getting a smaller image resolution. Zooming is the same as increasing focal length, something you should not do, as I mentioned.

– Tim Stack
15 mins ago





I would argue option 2 is the best, and the third the least favourable. The latter affects, as I wrote, the compression of the subject and a compressed subject would look off for macro photography. You'd also have to deal with cropping, thus getting a smaller image resolution. Zooming is the same as increasing focal length, something you should not do, as I mentioned.

– Tim Stack
15 mins ago













Thanks will look into the post a bit more in depth.

– Pherdindy
9 mins ago





Thanks will look into the post a bit more in depth.

– Pherdindy
9 mins ago













#2 takes too much work. Combine #1 and #3. Stop down to F11, use a small focal length (18mm), pick a distance where entire subject is in focus, crop resulting image.

– xiota
9 mins ago







#2 takes too much work. Combine #1 and #3. Stop down to F11, use a small focal length (18mm), pick a distance where entire subject is in focus, crop resulting image.

– xiota
9 mins ago













1














You need to increase Depth of Field.




  • Increase F-number (decrease aperture).

  • Increase distance.

  • Decrease focal length.


I would not use an aperture smaller than F8-11 because of diffraction. Once you have found a suitable distance, you will have to crop the image because the subject will be small within the frame.



Another technique you can consider using is tilt-shift. This allows you to align the focal plane with your subject. Since you are using mirrorless, you can buy a relatively inexpensive mount adapter with tilt function to use with a full-frame lens.






share|improve this answer


























  • Tilting mount is basically the thing on the tripod, if i'm not mistaken, where you can point the camera up or down?

    – Pherdindy
    7 mins ago













  • No, you'll need bellows or an adapter for that. You tilt the lens, not the entire camera

    – Tim Stack
    5 mins ago













  • I'm not affiliated... Just posting link as example... ebay.com/itm/293058811191

    – xiota
    4 mins ago











  • Okay thanks complete noob to this lol. Gonna spend time to read on the stuff in this post

    – Pherdindy
    3 mins ago











  • Have you also tried taking pictures with your phone? Usually the DOF is pretty wide and may get your entire product in focus.

    – xiota
    21 secs ago
















1














You need to increase Depth of Field.




  • Increase F-number (decrease aperture).

  • Increase distance.

  • Decrease focal length.


I would not use an aperture smaller than F8-11 because of diffraction. Once you have found a suitable distance, you will have to crop the image because the subject will be small within the frame.



Another technique you can consider using is tilt-shift. This allows you to align the focal plane with your subject. Since you are using mirrorless, you can buy a relatively inexpensive mount adapter with tilt function to use with a full-frame lens.






share|improve this answer


























  • Tilting mount is basically the thing on the tripod, if i'm not mistaken, where you can point the camera up or down?

    – Pherdindy
    7 mins ago













  • No, you'll need bellows or an adapter for that. You tilt the lens, not the entire camera

    – Tim Stack
    5 mins ago













  • I'm not affiliated... Just posting link as example... ebay.com/itm/293058811191

    – xiota
    4 mins ago











  • Okay thanks complete noob to this lol. Gonna spend time to read on the stuff in this post

    – Pherdindy
    3 mins ago











  • Have you also tried taking pictures with your phone? Usually the DOF is pretty wide and may get your entire product in focus.

    – xiota
    21 secs ago














1












1








1







You need to increase Depth of Field.




  • Increase F-number (decrease aperture).

  • Increase distance.

  • Decrease focal length.


I would not use an aperture smaller than F8-11 because of diffraction. Once you have found a suitable distance, you will have to crop the image because the subject will be small within the frame.



Another technique you can consider using is tilt-shift. This allows you to align the focal plane with your subject. Since you are using mirrorless, you can buy a relatively inexpensive mount adapter with tilt function to use with a full-frame lens.






share|improve this answer















You need to increase Depth of Field.




  • Increase F-number (decrease aperture).

  • Increase distance.

  • Decrease focal length.


I would not use an aperture smaller than F8-11 because of diffraction. Once you have found a suitable distance, you will have to crop the image because the subject will be small within the frame.



Another technique you can consider using is tilt-shift. This allows you to align the focal plane with your subject. Since you are using mirrorless, you can buy a relatively inexpensive mount adapter with tilt function to use with a full-frame lens.







share|improve this answer














share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer








edited 3 mins ago

























answered 11 mins ago









xiotaxiota

12.4k41865




12.4k41865













  • Tilting mount is basically the thing on the tripod, if i'm not mistaken, where you can point the camera up or down?

    – Pherdindy
    7 mins ago













  • No, you'll need bellows or an adapter for that. You tilt the lens, not the entire camera

    – Tim Stack
    5 mins ago













  • I'm not affiliated... Just posting link as example... ebay.com/itm/293058811191

    – xiota
    4 mins ago











  • Okay thanks complete noob to this lol. Gonna spend time to read on the stuff in this post

    – Pherdindy
    3 mins ago











  • Have you also tried taking pictures with your phone? Usually the DOF is pretty wide and may get your entire product in focus.

    – xiota
    21 secs ago



















  • Tilting mount is basically the thing on the tripod, if i'm not mistaken, where you can point the camera up or down?

    – Pherdindy
    7 mins ago













  • No, you'll need bellows or an adapter for that. You tilt the lens, not the entire camera

    – Tim Stack
    5 mins ago













  • I'm not affiliated... Just posting link as example... ebay.com/itm/293058811191

    – xiota
    4 mins ago











  • Okay thanks complete noob to this lol. Gonna spend time to read on the stuff in this post

    – Pherdindy
    3 mins ago











  • Have you also tried taking pictures with your phone? Usually the DOF is pretty wide and may get your entire product in focus.

    – xiota
    21 secs ago

















Tilting mount is basically the thing on the tripod, if i'm not mistaken, where you can point the camera up or down?

– Pherdindy
7 mins ago







Tilting mount is basically the thing on the tripod, if i'm not mistaken, where you can point the camera up or down?

– Pherdindy
7 mins ago















No, you'll need bellows or an adapter for that. You tilt the lens, not the entire camera

– Tim Stack
5 mins ago







No, you'll need bellows or an adapter for that. You tilt the lens, not the entire camera

– Tim Stack
5 mins ago















I'm not affiliated... Just posting link as example... ebay.com/itm/293058811191

– xiota
4 mins ago





I'm not affiliated... Just posting link as example... ebay.com/itm/293058811191

– xiota
4 mins ago













Okay thanks complete noob to this lol. Gonna spend time to read on the stuff in this post

– Pherdindy
3 mins ago





Okay thanks complete noob to this lol. Gonna spend time to read on the stuff in this post

– Pherdindy
3 mins ago













Have you also tried taking pictures with your phone? Usually the DOF is pretty wide and may get your entire product in focus.

– xiota
21 secs ago





Have you also tried taking pictures with your phone? Usually the DOF is pretty wide and may get your entire product in focus.

– xiota
21 secs ago


















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